Travel

Because of Anthony Bourdain

It was sad to hear of Anthony Bourdain’s death on Friday. We became big fans of Anthony when ‘Cook’s Tour’ began on Food Network back in 2002. At that time, food travel was certainly not a ‘thing’. Neither was the DVR. I routinely set-up our VCR (your grandparents can explain what that was) to tape ‘Cook’s Tour’ and ‘Follow that Food’ with Gordon Elliott. At the time, Molly was a ‘Food Network’ junkie and our travels were beginning to take us off the beaten path. We were looking for ideas. We never travelled because of Anthony Bourdain … but he did influence how we experienced places that we went. That seems like a good legacy. Since then, we have followed Anthony across multiple networks and shows including ‘No Reservations’, ‘The Layover’, and ‘Parts Unknown’. We would go to see him speak anytime he came to Seattle … and acquired all of his books. Over time, it seemed to us that Anthony’s shows changed. The shows progressively shifted further from what attracted us to him in the beginning. While we did not always agree with his values, we still watched every episode. We will always have those grainy VCR tapes of ‘Cook’s Tour’ and copies of ‘No Reservations’ recorded onto CD discs. However, what I will remember are the experiences at restaurants that we went to because of Bourdain. Here is my Top 10 List.

10. Ibu Oka – Bali

This was the first eatery that we sought out because of Bourdain. It was over a decade ago. We share Anthony’s affliction for all things pig and when he said this was the best pork … we had to check it out. The restaurant was a road side establishment that appeared more like a gas station from the outside. It took some persuasion to convince our driver to take us there. The promise of some roasted pork with crispy skin did the trick. Pigs being turned by hand for hours over a low fire created an amazingly tender meat with fantastic spices. But let’s be honest … it is all about the crispy skin. After that, our driver would take us anywhere. Hmmm. Maybe we should listen more to this Anthony dude.

9. Mak’s Noodle – Hong Kong

A simple noodle shop that would be easy to miss. While I had it on my list from Anthony, we actually visited the restaurant as part of a Food Tour. The noodles are great. Hong Kong is a foodie city. Like many large cities, it is easy to get overwhelmed with options. On more than one occasion, our discussion starts with … “Where did Tony go ?”

8. Joe Beef – Montreal

There is some debate between Molly and I on whether we first saw Anthony at ‘Joe Beef’ before or after we had been there. Since it is my list and I have not defined any rules, they make the list. The proprietors of ‘Joe Beef’ have since re-appeared on ‘Parts Unknown’ several times. Maybe we enjoy the hearty flavors of ‘Joe Beef’ because both Molly and I share some Canadian ancestry … or it could be the pork. Other than the strange yet wonderful concoction of poutine, I think my French-Canadian ancestors had a stronger influence on cuisine than her English roots … and ‘Joe Beef’ serves it up like a slap-shot on goal.

7. Maxwell Food Centre –  Singapore

A small hawker stall inside a Singapore food court. Plastic chairs. Chicken and rice. Simple. Tasty. Cold beer. Cheap. Check.

6. Joy Hing’s Roasted Meat – Hong Kong

Supposedly this is the place to get one of the cheapest meals at a Michelin restaurant. So much has been written that I would be redundant. We were here just recently, and even though we went not recalling that Anthony had been here, we’ll give him credit. Those of you that have been reading my other posts will also notice a common theme in the photo … duck.

5. Butcher Dario Cecchini – Tuscany

When we rented a villa in Tuscany for a week, a ‘must do’ was to travel a few villages away to the famous butcher that Anthony had visited. It did not disappoint. The shop feels like an odd combination of butcher, wine bar, grandma’s home, and theater. Enjoying a wonderful porchetta from Dario along with a fresh salad and good Tuscan wine on the patio of our villa with Molly and my parents … memorable.

4. Madam Khanh ‘The Banh Mi Queen’ – Hoi An, Vietnam

On our first day in Hoi An, a pouring rain storm did not stop us from seeking out ‘The Banh Mi Queen.’ We tempered our enthusiasm. It is just a sandwich, it looks like a small food cart, and Anthony has a rather obsessive reverence for all things Vietnam. Could it be that good? Yes. This is the only place on the list other than #1 where we have gone multiple times. Two hours before we needed to leave Hoi An for the airport, we were back for one more. This time Molly stood by during the assembly process and took notes. Everything you would expect from a food cart in Vietnam … French baguette, Laughing Cow cheese, pâté. Sure.

3. Lechonera Los Pinos – Puerto Rico

When Anthony suggested that there may be another place that rivals Bali for great piggy, we knew we had to jump in. They call it the Pork Highway. Seriously. We asked at our hotel in San Juan about access and were informed that on a Sunday getting to Guavate would be difficult to do. When we explained why … a few calls later and we had a driver. Learning from our experience in Bali we invited him to join us for pig. We now had a committed and eager driver. Now the debate. Which is the best piggy … Bali or Puerto Rico. Molly actually asked Anthony that question at a Q&A in Seattle. He was non-committal. So am I. Bali wins for spice and crispy skin. Puerto Rico wins for juicy pork and sides. In fact, it was here where we invented a new verb … to be ‘mofongoed’.

2. Asador Etxebarri – Basque Country

For years, we had talked about ‘the grill guy’ in Spain that Anthony had visited. Asador Etxebarri. It looked wonderful. Small … set in the country … simple … innovative … everything grilled. Unfortunately, it has since become ‘the place’ to visit, so getting reservations is challenging. On our last trip to San Sebastian we were unsuccessful in getting a table. However, after a bit of groveling, a table became available for dinner when we were in Rioja. A two-hour drive each way through mountains and into the country would not deter us. The concierge at our hotel agreed … amazing food is worth an effort. Besides, it was my birthday. The food was exceptional. The most memorable part was the smoked butter. Wow.

1. Arzak – San Sebastian

Perhaps the best way to describe our enthusiasm of Arzak is as follows … Do you have a menu signed by a chef framed and hanging in your kitchen? We do. If you don’t, perhaps you should visit Arzak. We have … twice. The first time to San Sebastian was specifically to go to this restaurant that we saw Anthony visit in ‘Cook’s Tour’. This is the restaurant on this list that you would say ‘Does not Belong.’ Unlike most of the others … this is high-end cuisine at its best. What it is not is pretentious. It is as comfortable and friendly as all of the others on this list. Arzak and his daughter have always stopped and chatted with us. The food is innovative, fun, and amazing. We have always done the tasting menu … a symphony of tastes interspersed with funky things like pop rocks and iPads. During our first visit, we were talking with our waiter about the delicious baby eels that we had eaten earlier in the day. He politely informed us that those were likely ‘fake’. A bit later they brought out a plate of the most amazing real baby eels. It wasn’t on the menu. They prepared them just for us. Incredible. Hooked.

Thank-you Anthony for introducing us to some amazing culinary experiences. We are just starting to plan a trip to Norway, Sweden, and Latvia. I wonder. Where did Tony go ?

 

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